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Introduction: Our ever-popular classic climbing tour comes with an added advantage this season: the acclimatization period has been optimized by including ascents of Pasochoa, Guagua (Baby) Pichincha and North Iliniza, which dramatically improve climbers’ success rates on those mountains which tend to pose the main challenge, the two highest peaks in Ecuador: Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Furthermore, by maintaining our famously exacting standards in quality accommodation right the way through this carefully thought-out itinerary, we’ve managed to put together a superlative expedition in the Ecuadorian Andes. Team Composition: Client to guide ratio 2:1 for the climbs on Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.
Itinerary: DAY 1: Arrive in Quito. Transfer to our hotel located in the tourist area towards the north of the capital. DAY 2: We leave early in the morning towards Pasochoa (4200m/ft). This will be our first acclimatization climb and an introduction to the beauty of the Ecuadorian Andes. For a large part of the day, we will have an opportunity to observe the flora of the Andean plateau and the majestic flight of a family of condors (two adults and one child) that have a nest in the sheer cliffs inside the crater. In addition, on the inside of the crater it is possible to see the forest with native trees known as Polilepis, the same trees that grow on the vertical walls that reach to the border of the crater. Due to its location near the National park of Cotopaxi , the view of the highest active volcano in the world is outstanding. The walk takes approximately five hours in total. Return to Quito. DAY 3: Our acclimatization continues on the Guagua Pichincha (4800 m/ 15500ft) with Quito in the foothills of the mountain. We will begin to climb from an altitude of approximately 3500m/ft. On the final stretch, before reaching the summit, we will be rewarded with spectacular views of the inside of the active crater with its smoke and recently formed lava domes. The ascent will take three to four hours and then it will take two hours to descend to the vehicle. Return to our hotel in Quito. DAY 4: This day we will arrive at the foothills of the twin Illinizas peaks. We will climb to our camping site at 3900m in a site known as La Virgen surrounded by the idyllic forest of Polilepis. We will take a short walk to explore in the afternoon before we return to the camp to prepare to the ascent of Iliniza Norte the following day. DAY 5: Our climb begins after an early breakfast at three in the morning. We will arrive at the saddle between the two mountains (4650m) in three hours approximately in time to see the sum rise gradually illuminating an almost perfectly formed cone of Cotopaxi and the massive Antisana in the horizon. We will continue up the east ridge to the North peak and will arrive to the summit in two hours (5126m). At the summit, we will be rewarded with a face-to-face view of Illiniza Sur and at the distance, Chimborazo . Return to our base camp to eat dinner and a well-earned rest. DAY 6: After breaking-down our camp, we will take a scenic drive to the Cotopaxi National Park. We will lodge in Chilcabamba where we will have an opportunity to examine the north face of the snow-covered Cotopaxi and our route to the summit. We stay overnight at Chilcabamba.Overnight in the hut. DAY 7: After inspecting our equipment and packing, we will drive to the parking area (4600m). After approximately an hour walk, we will arrive at the refuge Jose Ribas (4800m). Training on the nearest glacier, we will learn and practice snow climbing skills, self-arrest, rope handling and glacier travel. Return to the refuge to prepare for the ascent.
DAY 8: We will begin the ascent at one-thirty in the morning. We will walk for an hour over scree and snow until we arrive at the bottom of the glacier (5080m). After five to six hours, we will reach the summit (5897m/19560 ft) where we will be able to admire the gigantic crater that is 800 meters in diameter, the sea of clouds covering the Amazon, the lane of volcanoes, Cayambe, Antisana, and Chimborazo. We will descend to the refuge in two or three hours where we will pack and then travel to Machachi where we will spend the night. DAY 9: This day will be dedicated to sightseeing, rest and recover. We will travel to the town of Baños, which is known for its thermal hot pools. We will explore the nearby rainforest with its rivers and numerous waterfalls. We stay overnight in Baños. |
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